Tuesday, July 29, 2014

Still Loving London: June 7-9

"Mom, it stinks in here!!"
Our second week began with a meeting of an old friend of ours, Angie, who we first met Angie back in Prague. As veterans of the international teaching world, Angie and her husband, Tony, were great mentors in helping us adjust to life as international teachers.  And thanks to Facebook, we have kept in touch.  She took the train down from Nottingham, where she now lives, to London to see us and both her grown kids. We had a nice lunch in our neighborhood, catching up and sharing memories, and then strolled around town, stopping by the British Museum.  It was both surreal and completely normal to see a friend we haven't seen in nearly a decade, but that is the unique bond of international teaching.

A lovely lunch with our friend, Angie

A quick peek inside the British Museum 
Morgan up close with real hieroglyphics
Sasha loves her first double decker bus ride!
Paddington Station!
A big highlight of the week was a beautiful day trip to see the town of Bath.  Back in May, when I was still in Portland and Sam was in London, he sent me gorgeous photos and texts of his trip to Bath with his students.  I was quite jealous, I have to admit, so we had started planning on a trip there when we all arrived.  The train trip to Bath was beautiful and it was nice to see some English countryside.  And we got very lucky with the weather - actually we did on our whole trip.  Bath was charming and old and surrounded by green rolling hills...such a nice change of pace from busy London.
Morgan and Aunt Nat relax on the train 
The gorgeous Bath Abbey
As soon as we arrived in Bath, Nat and I headed for the Jane Austen tour, which was about to start.  Our mom is a big fan of Jane and got Natalie and I hooked on the BBC miniseries and movies made from her novels.  It was a nice walking tour where we had a chance to see a lot of the town as well as learn about the famous English author's time in Bath.  And of course a visit to the Jane Austen Centre was fun too, where they had all things Mr. Darcy.  Bath was so charming, relaxing and beautiful, I wished we could have spent the night.  But we had an afternoon train to catch and the kids were getting pretty restless!
The Pulteney Bridge has shops built into it
The original Roman baths where the town got its name 
I love all the old chimneys
Thank you, Jane Austen!
Sisters in Bath
More sisters in Bath - enjoying a pub lunch
By this point in our trip, the days were really starting to fly by.  But I realized in order to keep everyone happy and counteract some of the girls' homesickness, we needed to do more kid-centered activities in the remaining days in London.  This didn't mean giving up on sightseeing, but rather changing our priorities to keep the kids, and therefore the adults, as content as possible!


Captain Morgan!
There was no better way place to go than the Diana Memorial Playground.  I honestly think it was the best playground I have ever been to!  Named after the late princess, they spared no expense or creative thought in creating a true wonderland for kids.  Not only was it free to enter, but it was completely secure with a fence and attendant at the gate and it had a huge pirate ship surrounded by sand, better than any play structure I had ever seen.  Morgan loved climbing to the top of the crow's nest, while Sasha enjoyed steering the ship and going 'below deck' to play buried treasure in the sand.  I went down there with her and it was every kid for themselves.  With no grown ups around kids were in charge!  I loved hearing other kids shouting, "Aye matees, we've got to drive the ship!" in their little English accents.
All hands below deck!
Very happy travelers!!
Off to explore secret gardens
I think I loved the playground as much as the girls did.  But the playground was much more than that:  little forested trails to explore, different structures for different ages, nooks and crannies for kids to imagine the day away - and I loved how it was all secure, but gave kids the freedom they need to play. Top that off with some ridiculously expensive ice cream and a carousel ride and we not only made the girls very happy, but we made the adults quite happy as well.
Carousel time!
Compulsory ice cream break!
Well, considering this was only three days worth of activities, I see I will need a few more posts to finish all I want to say about lovely London....more to come!

Thursday, July 24, 2014

Loving London: Week 1, June 1-6


My first trip to London was in 2005, for my 30th birthday.  The trip was only two nights long (not two weeks long, like this one).   I can't say I fell in love with London back then, but I regarded it in high esteem, as they might have said back in Jane Austen's day.  But I was also holding it up in comparison to Prague, Florence, Paris, and other foreign locales - back when we were living overseas.  I guess then, an English-speaking city wasn't that exotic to me.

Of course now I travel quite differently, with these new companions of mine, and I have found myself falling head over heels for London.  It is a fantastic city with loads to do, and the fact that English is spoken (most of which is understandable and pronounceable), made it so easy to fit right in to London life.

Our first quick flight up to Seattle
But first, we had to get to London.  All my fears of flying that far with the kids really did not come true at all.  I was lucky that my sister, Natalie, decided to join us and flew over with us.  It was so great having another set of eyes on the kids at the airports, especially. On the long flight from Seattle to London, the girls did great!  I was pleasantly surprised that they slept a fair amount on the red-eye flight, and were otherwise mesmerized with the individual screens in front of them.  It was a much quicker 9.5 hours than I was expecting!
Both girls wore their wings and read the safety card
London + Daddy!  Morgan's first ride in a black cab
It was a happy reunion at Heathrow when we all got to see Daddy again after being apart for nearly a month.  We refer to it as our Love Actually moment.  We settled in to London pretty quickly (some of us more than others), and it was so nice to have Sam as our tour guide.  Compared with my first visit to London, we saw so much more this time around, and I feel like we (my daughters included) were able to tick off all the sights we were most eager to see.  Our first day got us out on a boat on the Thames River.  It was a nice way to get our bearings in the city, and it didn't involve a lot of walking as we got over jet lag.  We cruised down to Greenwich, where the meridian is, strolled along the river, and had a lovely outdoor lunch at Meantime Brewing.  Yes, Sam had already scoped out breweries for us to stop at!  We did get a bit lost trying to find the brewery -thanks, Google Maps!- but a kind local stopped to help us out.  (That wouldn't be the only time!)
Our first sighting of Big Ben!
Holding up the London Eye!
Shard Head!
Lunchtime at Meantime Brewing in Greenwich
My delightful travel buddy and me
An empty boat became an impromptu playground

The Waterhouse Building was built in 1881.
Feeling adventurous and still on a high from being in a new place, the next day Natalie and I ventured to the Natural History Museum while Sam was teaching.  This involved a tube ride across town, a few blocks walk to get to the museum, and of course lots of natural history.  We hoped getting an early start and picking and choosing what we saw at this amazing museum would set us up for success.  Looking back on it, I'm not sure we could have prepared at all for a major Sasha meltdown, but such is life when you take a three-year old across the globe.  The fact that her tantrum was in the cafĂ© of this ancient building (can you hear her shrieks echoing on the old stone walls and thirty-foot ceiling?!)  A meal and a modified sightseeing plan helped ...as well as some ice cream on the way home.  The girls' best memory of the place is probably getting to buy matching stuffed bunnies from the gift shop.  They had nothing to do with London but they played with them for the next three weeks, so it was a good investment. On the way home, both girls fell asleep on the tube ride (the first of many times), making it a rough slog home the 9 or so blocks from the tube station with Sasha in my arms and Morgan in the stroller.  I'm thankful I had my "sister-wife" Natalie along to help haul home the girls in the rain that day!
The dinosaurs were impressive!
Animal details were everywhere
Stormy skies were the theme of the day
And the daily ice cream bribe...along with a bit of wind and rain
Post ice cream:  Skipping through the tube!
After a few days chilling in our neighborhood to rest up from that exhausting adventure, Natalie and I were ready for the Tower of London.  She had been there back in college, but I had never been.  Morgan had also seen a TV show about it so it was important that she be able to check that off her must-see list.  Sasha was still not too keen to sightsee (I need another blog post to tell about that), but it was a sunny day and we were feeling optimistic!
The Tower Bridge through an old window
Kids on "School Trips" were everywhere - in uniform, of course.





Seeing a guard close up was cool!
It is quite incredible to visit a structure that is so incredibly old, with so much history.  While much of the history is bloody and gruesome, the fact that the Tower has withstood so many rulers, wars, diseases, and change is remarkable.   Words like coronation and beheading were suddenly becoming part of our conversations with Morgan, and she was starting to get the hang of all those Roman numerals she saw after the names of royalty.  I can't even comprehend 1000 years of history, let alone expect the kids to.  But I know what Morgan will remember is seeing huge displays of impressive armor, walking along the tower's walls, peering out of holes that soldiers once shot arrows at enemies, and seeing the Queen's Crown Jewels in person.  History really comes alive when you see it in person.  Even though she has such a small perspective on history at the age of 6, I know this left quite an impression on her.

A rare sisterly moment at the White Tower
Halt! Who goes there?! 
Meeting a cheerful Yeoman Warder
Morgan loved all the armor - even on the horses!
A very heavy helmet!
Meanwhile, Sam was still teaching during the two weeks we were in London as well as taking his 20 students on lots of tours.  He had already been to many of the places we were seeing, so it was fine that we were sightseeing without him.  But he also wanted us to come along on his "field trips."  One of them was a visit to Hampton Court, a famous palace built long ago.  It is a bit outside of London, so I decided not to drag Sasha there, but Morgan was excited to go.  So she got to be a tour leader for a day!  We were starting to get to know Sam's students, many of whom had already offered to babysit the girls.  Morgan loved hanging with the older girls and loved the attention they showed her.
The ladies in costume
Morgan fits right in with the college kids at Hampton Court
Another thing on Morgan's must-see list was to have afternoon tea.  Now, she had never tasted tea in her life but seemed to know that this was an important thing to do whilst in London!  But when we started looking around at the prices for afternoon tea, we realized we couldn't all go - or we would have to skip seeing a major sight.  It would have been about $50 US per person for a tea at a hotel!  So, we decided to go to a lovely neighborhood bakery, named Gail's, that Sam discovered.  Morgan was a bit disappointed it wasn't more fancy, but once she saw the desserts she didn't seem to care.  So we ordered our own pot of tea and a couple of rich desserts so we could say we had officially had afternoon tea in London!  And for the record, she did try the tea but I don't think she will become a big drinker very soon.
Tea Time!

To be continued.......more about our second week in London coming soon!

Thursday, July 17, 2014

Our Month in Europe: We Did It!

HOLLOWAY  ROAD!
Well, we did it!  The trip we had been talking about, planning, and imagining for a couple of years is now fini!  In four weeks time, we visited one new continent, three countries, five cities, and traveled by plane, boat, underground, train, taxi, stroller, and shoulders to see all we could.  So I have a lot to share about that very unique month in our lives, but it may take me a while to get it all out here.

So stay tuned!  

I do have to say I am a bit wistful.  It was a dreamy month in so many ways, and I still can't quite believe we did all that we set out to do.  Yet, it was also an extremely challenging month in so many ways, and I can't believe we survived all that we did!  We sure learned a lot along the way - every one of us - and I'm so thankful we got to experience this as a family.
On the move AGAIN! Awaiting an Uber in Paris
Ready, Set, Go!  At PDX on May 31




 I'm most proud of my two little travelers who grew so much during this journey, and were also asked to put up with so many new experiences and an incredible amount of change.  I have plenty more to say about the ups and downs of our trip, but for now I am so happy we had the courage to take these little girls on this amazing journey.  We are all better for having done it TOGETHER!